Wainwright's Coast to Coast Walk: Our story - part 2
At Shap we decided to take a day off, because our clothes were dirty and we ourselves were needing some washing too.Next day we walked through limestone country from Shap to Kirkby Stephen. After all the climbing and desending in the Lake District it was nice to have a day of small altitudes. Because of this little differences in heigth you use the same muscles all the time, what gives you sour feet and legs. However the beautiful landscape makes that you go on in spit of the pain.
At Sheepfolds, just beyond Bents Farm, the Walk goes over permissive path, so the walkers are recommended to follow the instructions on the sign. The part after the sign is plesant to
walk with again some great views. At Kirkby Stephen we spent the night at an official campsite.
Next day we started with a rather serious climb that ends at Nine Standards. After Nine Standards the route has changed, because of the severe erosion. The land here is grassy
and swampy with a lot of small streams passing, what makes walking hard and favours the erosion. The new and in 1998 still permissive path, continues down in Whilsundale and shortens
the route with 1 mile. After Ney Gill Hill the path improves, what favours the progress and by the time we reached Keld the path has become a road.
With reaching Keld we also finished the first half of the Coast to Coast Walk.After Keld we continued to Crackpot Hall, where we took the wrong path. We noticed that because our path followed the river and did not climb enough. Going back was no option, so from Fair Yew End we took another path to the disused Swinner Gill Lead Mines. The last part of this day was the climb from the disused mines to about Grouse Butts. Here we spent the night in our tent.
After the night we continued. The path climbs a little, before descending into Gunnerside Gill. In the land a lot of signs of the past mining history can be found.
Near the river ruins of Blakethwaite Smelt Mill were found. After the dale the path climbs again to Melbecks Moor. Here at the top all vegetation had been destroyed by a
deep covering of gravel, the spoil of old mines and pits. For a third mile (0.5 km), not a blade of grass nor a spring of heather is seen, the natural moorland having
been transformed into an arid desert of stone. All very impressive!!
After this enormous gravel field the route goes on along another monument of acient history, the ruins of Old Gang Beck Mine. Not much later the landscape becomes more friendly
and alive. And after another while we reached Reeth, where we took our lunch break.After Reeth we continued in the direction of Mary Abbey. Every part of the route this day progresses very fast, so after Mary Abbey, we went to Marrick and Maske, where a village feast was going on. Because our feet were starting to hurt we decided to go on for a little while and in the meanwhile looking for a place to pitch our tent. At Applegarth, just before entering Whitecliff Wood we found a suitable place, pitched our tent for the nigth and enjoyed the last sunshine of the day.
Next day it was raining. Early Sunday morning we were at Richmond and because of that Richmond looked rather deserted and wet. From Richmond to Ingleby Cross the route goes over cultivated low land. This and the rainy weather made it a hard day. Our feet were soaked far before lunch and we were cold. We were glad when we reached Danby Wiske, where we pitched our tent in the garden of White Swan, between the chickens and sheeps. In the evening we watched the final match of the Football World Cup, it was cosy and warm in the pub.
Next morning the rain stopped - more or less - and we continued our path through the cultivated low country to Ingleby Cross. At Ingleby Cross we stayed at the Blue Bell Inn. Because this was a small stage we reached the Inn pretty early, so we could rest and do some shopping for next days. After we noticed that Ingleby Cross did not have a decent shop we hitchhiked to Middlesbrough. The hike to this place was very easy, it was harder to get back, but after 3 hikes we got back with the purchases.
To be continued in part 3
Last modified December 2000